My Favourite Markets
Just about every village in Provence has a weekly market. Some villages have markets that occur twice a week or even daily! Markets are absolutely my favourite part of living in Provence. We can easily spend a day wandering through the stalls and people watching as we sit at a wonky table with a couple glasses of rosé. The weekly market is a ritual that is truly part of living in Provence. On Sundays you’ll see whole families shopping together as kids amazingly express great interest in the new vegetables of the season. Here are my 9 favourite Provençal markets.
Seasonal mushrooms at Le Thor market
If you’re planning on visiting Provence you must visit one of these wonderful events. Everyone has their favourites, but these are mine. I judge based on the quality of the produce, variety, ambiance and the ever so important factor- are there cafés positioned with a great view on sunny terraces?
I’ve been to all of these many times. I’ve included a “day out” plan with each of them if you want to make the most out of your market experience. All markets included in this list are morning markets. In the warmer weather the stalls are set up by 9 am and go until 12:30. In the winter, all these markets still occur, though they are smaller and start a little later.
If you have any questions feel free to comment below or send me a message!
Provencal Markets
A Provencal market includes not only prepared foods and produce, but provençal goods such as lavender, tablecloths, clothes etc. It is the best type of market to visit if you’re only here for a short time. When you arrive to the town or village on market day the location of the stalls will be evident. Just follow the French people with straw bags and know you’re getting closer when the parking starts to get really creative. All these markets get very busy during the warmer months starting around 10:30 am.
Early morning at Vaison la Romaine
What you’ll find at a Provencal Market:
Fruit + veggies, cured meats, olives, wide variety of cheeses, olive oil, jam, honey, soap, lavender sachets, tablecloths, clothes, straw bags, prepared foods (rotisserie chicken, chick peas), wine, kitchen items, dried herbs, art, pottery etc.
I love seeing all the different small producers of goat cheese. Goat cheese here tastes nothing like the stuff you get in big supermarkets in the anglo-saxon world. It’s fresh and delicious!
How good do these figs look? You know they’re very fresh because they don’t last very long in crates!
Amazing plum varieties in Autumn at Vaison la Romaine
Vaison la Romain – Tuesday
This is an immense provencal market where there is great quality for lower prices due to a smaller amount of tourists. There is an abundance of cafés and live music to sit and enjoy the atmosphere.
Bread stand at one of the market intersections of Vaison la Romaine
Make a day of it:
Since you’re in the Côtes du Rhône region I would either:
– Visit the hilltop towns of Gigondas, Seguret, Sablet, and Vacqueyras and have lunch/wine taste overlooking this beautiful region
Blue shutters and winding streets in Gigondas
View from the town of Gigondas. Not only is the wine good- so is the scenery!
- drive around the countryside surrounding these hilltop towns and stop at whatever vineyards take your fancy
- randonnée or hike on a trail, with a picnic of your purchased market goods of course, at the nearby Dentelles de Montmirail
Saint Remy de Provence – Wednesday
This is a fantastic size market. Not too big and tucked into the squares and winding interior streets of Saint Remy. The clientele is a little more chic here which makes for more interesting clothing stands and it’s great for souvenirs. Not only is the market varied and lively but Saint Remy has many great boutiques and restaurants. For More on Saint Remy:
Morning Ritual at Saint Remy de Provence
Saint Remy Christmas Market – Marché du Gros Souper
Make a day of it:
There’s quite a few itineraries to choose from here but I would either:
- Spend the entire morning wandering around the market, then leave the town of St Remy to drive the 10 minutes over the Alpilles; across the stunning olive orchards to Maussane to have lunch in one of the many restaurants there. Saint Remy can get crazy busy so it’s nice to go somewhere a little more calm.
- If you’re a shopper, spend the morning at the market, have lunch in Saint Remy, and then shop the boutiques in the afternoon
- Spend the morning at the market nibbling and then go to Les Baux de Provence to see the hilltop town overlooking the Alpilles as well as the Carrieres de Lumières show which are projections of paintings that follow music set in an old bauxite quarry. This year’s theme is the painter Chagall.
- Spend the morning at the market; then check out the ancient ruins of Glanum as well as the Saint Paul de Mausole asylum where Van Gogh painted during his time in Saint Remy.
More on Les Baux de Provence:
Les Baux de Provence AOP Wines
Sunset in the Vineyards of Les Baux de Provence
Aix en Provence – Thursday, Saturday
I love this square in Aix en Provence
There is absolutely nothing not to like about this town. I love Aix. It’ s the quintessential market town. It has an ambiance that reminds me very much of my time in Florence, Italy. There are numerous markets during all the days of the week but Thursday and Saturday are when they all happen simultaneously. You’ll find a flower market, an antique market, a clothing market (providing everything you need to look like a French boho or French market chic) as well as 2 produce markets. Wonderful!
Make a day of it:
- If you manage to wander around in circles staring up at all the beautiful colours of the shutters (it’s best to get a map from the tourist office) and see all the markets you might not have much energy left to do anything other than enjoy a nice long lunch…or maybe that’s just me
- If you’re shopped out, go to nearby Mont St Victoire, the inspiration for so many of Cezanne’s paintings, and climb to the top. It’s long but worth it!
Lourmarin – Friday
This is a great market because it occurs in this lovely town in the Southern Luberon which is filled with art galleries.
Make a day of it:
- Assuming you’ve savoured the art galleries; market and chateau in Lourmarin, you could take a drive north towards Bonnieux where you can enjoy a wonderful view of the Luberon valley that was made so famous by Peter Mayle’s A Year in Provence. You can travel from town to town, as we do, and cry as you witness tucked into the olive/cherry orchards and vineyards the most perfect Provencal farmhouses.
- Head to Lauris where you can visit the square surrounded by artist workshops and the large garden of the castle that overlooks the Southern Luberon. Take a picnic! It’s stunning.
Eygalières – Friday
One of my absolute favourites. I like that this market is relatively small but has numerous perfectly positioned cafés to enjoy the people watching (and there are some characters!).
Make a day of it:
– wander the market in the morning, have a boozy lunch in the village and find a shady spot to take a siesta in the afternoon to the sound of Cicadas. Honestly, it’s the way to go- or so the local fisherman tell me.
Apt – Saturday
This is voted one of the best markets in France and I must admit the variety and ambiance are difficult to compete with. The market winds through the inner streets of Apt which makes wandering around a lovely experience; you’ll often think you’re at the end of the stalls when you get to a turn and voila! More market! There is a large Arab population on the outskirts of the city so you’ll find great Moroccan breads and pastries here.
Make a day of it:
- Drive the 10 minutes to Saint Saturnin Les Apt to take in the view of the valley. Wander the castle ruins and have a glass of rosé in a café.
- Drive to Sault and visit a Lavender farm (if you’re there in July) in the surrounding countryside
Uzès – Saturday (this is actually in Languedoc Rousillion but close enough and worth a day trip)
This market is set in a beautiful square surrounded by Plain trees. The town itself has wonderful architecture and many charming bistros.
Make a day of it:
- Go to the market in the morning and then to the Pont du Gard in the afternoon. The museum at this roman aqueduct is well presented, interactive and fascinating. You can drive there, or you can also kayak along the river under the aqueduct. Either way, it’s pretty impressive. My favourite part is the 1000 year old olive tree!
- Explore the small and wonderful village of Castillon du Gard after the market to witness a change in architecture and colours synonymous with Provence.
![pont du gard]()
Isle sur la Sorgue – Sunday
This is a great market to visit if you’re only in Provence for a short time. Here, you’ll find the bustling twin antique and food markets that run along either side of the Sorgue river as well as through the inner streets of the town. The variety of the Provencal market here is vast (the only market with a chilli stand) and the antiques are second only to those in Paris. This is the antique centre of Southern France. It is second only to Paris. Make sure to get here early as parking is limited and it gets very busy! The boutiques of Isle sur la Sorgue are also open in the afternoon (make sure to give the stallholders some respected lunch time at midday- they will often break out the wine, bread and homemade stew) which makes this one of the only towns you can visit in Provence on a Sunday. The market also goes a little later than most.
You can absolutely never have too much basil
Make a day of it:
- if you like your antiques you should browse the market stalls in the morning, have lunch, and then check out the many antique stores and warehouses full of beautiful objects and furniture from the last 400 years.
- head over to the Luberon where you can visit:
- Gordes (hilltop town most beautiful when you’re looking at it rather than in it) and by extension Village des Bories (a village of dry stone dwellings) or Abbey de Sénanque (the abbey not surprisingly most photographed in Provence- it’s surrounded by Lavender fields)
![village des bories]()
- Roussillion (stunning trails and buildings surrounded and made of different shades of ochre)
- any town you like! Part of the joy of the Luberon is driving around the countryside
Indoor Market
Avignon – Every morning
If the weather isn’t great then I suggest heading over to Les Halles d’Avignon. This has a great atmosphere with a variety of stalls (food mainly) and, most importantly, lots of bars and seafood stalls. This combination always leads to a collaboration of tiny tables, plentiful bottles of dry white wine (usually from Cassis) and stacks of plates filled with coquillages or huitres (shellfish or oysters).
Make a day of it:
– Assuming you haven’t had too much wine check out the Palais des Papes, the residence and fortress of 6 papal conclaves in the 14th century. The palace dominates the skyline of the city and is one of the largest gothic palaces in Europe.
– Catch a play during Avignon’s famous Theatre festival in July
For a complete guide to the markets of Provence check out the local tourist office where you’ll find a handy map with all the markets categorised by day of the week and region.
This website is also a quick way to find the nearest market.
Check out Part II of the best markets in the Bouches du Rhône region of Provence: Farmers Markets
What are you favourite markets in Provence? Why? Which ones would you like to visit most?
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